Which Plants Attract Butterflies

Posted on February 16, 2015March 15, 2017

Here is a helpful list of plants that attract butterflies. Plant these in your garden or yard to have a front row seat to view some of the animal kingdom’s most beautiful insects!

Butterfly Bush (Buddleia selections)

Butterfly Bush is an Annual shrub that features flowers in shades of blue, purple and white. Grown in the summer, this plant will attract butterflies all season long. At full growth, this plant can be 10 feet tall and 15 feet wide depending on type. For best results, plant in full sun with moist and well drained soil. This plant flourishes in zones between 5 and 9.

Phlox (Phlox paniculata)

Phlox is a Perennial flower that has beautiful bunches of red, pink, lavender, salmon, or white blooms. Grown in the summer, this plant has a light scent that pleases not only our noses but also the hungry butterflies. At full growth, this plant can be 4 feet tall and 1 foot wide. For best results, plant in full sun with well drained soil. This plant grows best between zones 4 and 8.

Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum)

Anise Hyssop is a Perennial flower that is a beautiful shade of purple that is great for cutting. Grown in the late summer, this plant is super heat and drought tolerant, and also avoided by deer and rabbits! At full growth, this plant can reach 5 feet tall and 2 feet wide. For best results, plant in full sun with well drained soil. This plant is successful between zones 4 and 10.

Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)

Butterfly Weed is a Perennial flower that has bright orange flowers that are highly attractive to butterflies. Grown in the summer, this plant helps sustain the life cycle of Monarch butterflies. At full growth this plant can be 3 feet tall and 1 foot wide. For best results, plant in full sun with well drained soil. This plant flourishes between zones 4 and 9.

Aster (Aster selections)

Aster is a Perennial flower that blooms in shades of blue, purple, pink, red and white and also resembles the Daisy flower. Grown in the fall, the blossoms supply nectar for fall butterflies including Pearl Crescent Caterpillars. At full growth, this plant can reach 5 feet tall and 2 feet wide. For best results plant in full sun with moist, well drained soil. This plant grows best between zones 3 and 8.

Purple Coneflower (Echinacea)

Purple Coneflower is a Perennial that blooms bright purple flowers. Grown in the summer, this plant is very heat and drought tolerant. Many types of butterflies enjoy the nectar during the summer heat. At full growth, it can reach 5 feet tall and 2 feet wide. For best results plant in full sun with well drained soil. This plant grows best between zones 3 and 9.

Salvia (Salvia ‘May Night’)

Salvia is a Perennial flower, unless bloomed in colder regions. Typically grown in the summer, Salvia blooms in many colors and sizes. Colors include: blue, purple, red, orange, and pink. At full growth, Salvia can reach 3 feet tall and 1 foot wide. For best results plant in full sun with moist, well drained soil. This plant flourishes in zones between 4 and 9.

Lantana (Lantana)

Lantana is also a Perennial flower unless grown in colder regions. Grown in the summer, Lantana blooms in shades of lavender, pink, orange, yellow, cream, and white. This plant is ideal for borders or placed in beds. At full growth, Lantana can be 3 feet tall and 3 feet wide. For best results plant in full sun with well drained soil. This plant grows best in zone 10.

Pentas (Pentas)

Pentas is an annual flower that dawns star shaped blooms in colors of pink, red and white. Grown typically in the summer, this plant holds up to drought very well and loves hot conditions. At full growth, Pentas can reach up to 4 feet tall and 3 feet wide. For best results plant in full sun with well drained soil. This plant flourishes in zones 10 and 11.

Passionflower (Passiflora incarnata)

Passionflower is an exotic vine flower that will give your garden a look of tropicana. Passionflower blooms in vibrant shades of purples and lavenders. Grown as both annual and perennial blooms, passionflower is grown in the summer. At full growth, Passionflower can climb 10 feet. This plant flourishes inn zones between 6 and 9.

Mexican Sunflower (Tithonia rotunifolia)

Mexican Sunflower is an annual flower grown in the summer. Blooming in vibrant oranges, this plant is sure to give your garden a lovely pop of color. At full growth, this flower can reach up to 6 feet tall and 1 foot wide. This plant grows best in warm regions.

South American Verbena (Verbena bonariensis)

South American Verbena is a Perennial plant unless grown in colder regions. Verbena is a flower that is perfect for cuttings, each time you cut it, more flowers grow back. Verbena blooms in in lavender purple blooms and grows best in summer. At full growth, Verbena can reach 6 feet tall and 2 feet wide. It grows best in zones between 7 and 10.

Zinnia (Zinnia)

Zinnias are Perennial flowers that come in a variety of colors. Grown in the summer, Zinnias are the perfect addition to any garden. At full growth, these boisterous flowers can reach 3 feet tall and 1 foot wide. Zinnias can be grown almost anywhere where there is heat.

Joe Pye Weed (Eupatorium)

Joe Pye Weed, is not what you think it is. While sounding like something you should pick instead of plant in your garden, Joe Pye Weed is a suprisingly refreshing look for your fall garden. Dusty pink flowers, can grow up to 7 feet tall and 3 feet wide. This Perennial flower grows best in zones between 3 and 9.

Black Eyed Susan (Rudeckia)

Black Eyed Susan, is a tough Perennial flower that grows in the late summer. With bright yellow petals and a dark center, Black Eyed Susans are a great addition to any garden or bouquet. At full growth, these flowers can reach up to 6 feet tall and 3 feet wide. They grow best in zones between 4 and 9.

Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)

Fennel is a plant not just for eating. Fennel can add a great contrast and texture to any garden. Many swallowtail butterflies lay eggs on Fennel plants in the fall. Fennel is a perennial plant unless in cooler areas. Fennel can reach up to 6 feet tall and 2 feet wide. This plant flourishes in zones between 4 and 9.

Coreopsis (Coreopsis ‘Moonbeam’)

Coreopsis is a bright Perennial flower that grows in the summer. These flowers are great to look at due to the bright yellow flowers against the dark green foliage underneath. At full growth these plants can reach 18 inches tall and wide. These flowers bloom best between zones 3 and 8.

Thank you to Better Homes and Gardens for the original information and photographs. You can read more here.

Black Plants for October

Posted on February 16, 2015March 15, 2017

Once the month of October arrives, it is time to get festive. Cozy Sweaters, Hot Drinks, and Halloween! Carved Pumpkins sitting on the porch, and ghosts hanging in the window. Your yard would be incomplete without a little decoration in the garden also. Here is a list of black plants to give your garden a pop- or lack of a pop of color.

Black mondo grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’) – This grass does well when planted in full sun or part shade. It grows roughly a foot tall and wide, and is great for ground coverage.

Coral bells (Heuchera ‘Obsidian’) – This plant can tolerate full sun and part shade. For the best results plant in a sunny area with some afternoon shade. It grows about 1 to 2 feet tall and 1 foot wide.

Orange and black pansies (Viola x wittrockiana)
– This plant does well in full sun to partial shade. It will bloom in the fall and then once again in the spring. It grows to about 6 to 8 inches with about the same size spread.

Black snakeroot (Cimicifuga ramosa ‘James Compton’) -This plant grows best in full sun for the deepest color. It grows to about 3 feet tall with a spread of 2 feet. It’s flowers will bloom in autumn.

Black rose (Aeonium ‘Zwartkop’) – This plant thrives in full sun to partial shade. It can grow up to 10 inches tall and wide in the shape of a rosette.

Plants that discourage deer

Posted on January 23, 2015March 15, 2017

Here in the northeast, there has recently been an overwhelming number of deer in spots. The victim of the mass quantity of deers is people’s gardens. Since there is a sparse food source for the deer due to overpopulation, they have to turn to alternative methods. Since a starving deer will eat almost anything, there is no designated “deer resistant” plant. However, deer can be picky eaters. Some favorite plants of deers include arborvitae, rhododendron, hosta, tulips and yews. So be weary of planting those if you have a deer issue. Here is a list of plants that deer find inedible:

Butterfly Bush
Catmint
Clump Bamboo
Daffodil
Dwarf Alberta Spruce
Fern
Fountain Grass
Ornamental Onion
Yucca

While there is deer repellant that is sold in stores, it can be pricey and has to be reapplied many times. This constant reapplication can lead to the repellant getting into ground water. If your deer debacle is minimal (about 1 to 3 deer), home remedies can be useful. You can collect human hair (either from a barbershop, salon, or your own house) and place a few handfuls in mesh bags and hang them in trees 2 to 3 feet off the ground.You can also hang heavily scented soap like Irish Spring in a bag from a tree.

If your problem is severe, the only remedy may be installing a fence. Keep in mind that starving deer can jump a 6-foot fence- you will have to get creative. Either install an 8-foot fence, a 6-foot fence angled out at 45 degrees, or two fences at least 3 feet tall and about 4 feet apart. Deer won’t be able to leap over both sets of fences.

Thank you to Jessica Damiano for the original information. You can read more here.

You can also read more here, in our other article on what plants deers will not eat.

How to start your own Compost Pile

Posted on January 23, 2015March 15, 2017

You may ask, Why is composting good? Well there are many reasons. Here are some to name a few:

It saves water by helping the soil retain moisture and reduce runoff.
It reduces the need for commercial soil fertilizers, which contain chemicals that are not healthy in mass quantities for the environment.
Helps protects plants from drought and freezes.

The bigger question you may be asking now is, Why don’t I have a composting pile in my yard? Here is a helpful guide on how to start your own composting pile for your garden and yard.

To start, you will need a few things.

Carbon rich “brown” materials, like fall leaves, straw, dead flowers, and newspaper.
Nitrogen-rich “green” materials, like lawn clippings, vegetable peelings and fruit rinds (NO meat scraps), or animal manure*.
One or two shovels of garden soil.
A site that is at least 3 feet long by 3 feet wide.

*Manure, even though brown in color, is full of nitrogen. However, do not use manure from carnivores such as cats or dogs.

Here’s how you start!

Start by putting down a layer that is several inches think of coarse dry “brown” stuff in the area where you wish your pile to be.
Top that with several inches of “green” stuff.
Add a thin layer of soil.
Add a layer of “brown” stuff.
Moisten the three layers.
Repeat.

You want to layer your pile until it is roughly 3 feet tall. A good rule to go by is a ratio of three parts “brown” to one part “green.” Don’t be alarmed however, it will take a little while before your pile gets that high. Every couple of weeks, use a garden for or shovel to turn the pile, moving around the compost and releasing gases. Move the material from the center out. It is important to keep your pile moist, but not wet. If you keep up with turning and keeping it moist, you will have earth worms in a few weeks and it will begin to turn into a black, crumbly, and sweet smelling fertilizer.

Keep in mind that you do not need a compost bin, to make a compost. Just a pile in your yard works. Some gardeners make a box to keep it in, to insure a neat pile. But that is totally optional!

Thank you Organic Gardening for the original information. You can read more here.

What to do in December

Posted on December 2, 2014March 15, 2017

December is upon us, that means plants have become dormant and grass has stopped growing. But there is always garden work that can be done! Here are some tips of what to do in the month of December for your garden.

1. In the beginning of the month, you should incorporate lime and compost into your vegetable beds. By adding nutrients to the soil now, by the time spring rolls around you will have a rich soil ideal for spring planting.

2. Within the second week of the month you should move your house plants together in one area inside your house. It is ideal to run a humidifier near your plants and keep them away from radiators and heating vents.

3. By the third week of the month you should cover strawberries with floating row covers, to prevent frost and cold air to build up on the fruit.

4. Once the fourth week of the month rolls around, you should begin to bring inside lilies (don’t worry they should bloom by Easter!)

5. For the last week of the month restock bird feeders and remember to provide clean water for birds because they need to find food in the winter as well.

Throughout the month of December, it is important to check your Christmas tree for watering daily (if you always have a live tree). Be sure to keep it at least three feet away from radiators or any heat source and to always turn off the lights before going to sleep. According to the NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) fire departments respond to an average of 210 structure fires caused by Christmas trees. When decorating the tree, make sure there is no broken, worn, or loose bulbs on a string of lights. After the holiday season is over, get rid of your tree when it begins to drop needles. Dried-out trees are just as much of a fire hazard than you think. Never keep it in a garage or placed outside against the home. For more information on Christmas tree safety, you can visit our page here.

What to do in November

Posted on November 1, 2014March 15, 2017

November is here, which means changing colors, raking, and Thanksgiving. But before turkey time comes around, here are some chores that should be done in preparation for the coming winter months.

1. For December blooms, place Christmas cactus in the dark at 55-60 degrees for 14 hours each night, and in bright light for 10 hours daily.

2. Deadhead flowering houseplants and trim brown foliage.

3. Harvest Brussels sprouts.

4. Continue to plant bulbs as long as the ground isn’t frozen.

5. Have a happy Thanksgiving!

6. Resist the urge to apply new mulch; it’s still too early. The ground must be frozen.

Don’t forget that it is illegal to apply fertilizer from November 1st to April 1st in Suffolk County, and from November 15th to April 1st in Nassau County. As the ground starts to freeze, it becomes harder for water to absorb into the soil. When it rains, the excess nitrogen from the fertilizer runs off and gets in to the public drinking water supply, endangering the public health.

What to do in October

Posted on October 10, 2014March 15, 2017

It is October, time for the cold weather, last minute garden cleanup, and celebrating Halloween.

1.Time to do final lawn repairs and seeding before it’s officially too late. For next June’s harvest, plant unpeeled organic garlic cloves pointy end up in the garden. For holiday blooms start those paperwhites now! Place the bulbs pointy end up in a shallow container of gravel. Add water to reach bulb bottoms.

2. Time to plant rhubarb (it is perennial). Also prepare a bed for peas and spinach so you can sow seeds in the early spring. When the vines die back, you can even harvest winter squash!

3. Cover your ponds with netting, to keep out pesky falling leaves. Also clear out vegetable beds, till soil and incorporate compost, manure and lime into the soil as well. Apply potassium around the base of roses to increase resistance against winter, but DO NOT apply nitrogen. Cut back long whips to protect from wind damage.

4. Now is the time to start smothering the grass, so you can prepare new beds. Get cardboard or thick layers of newspaper to cover the ground and mulch over to keep in place. Cut down bee balm, blanket flower, bearded iris, columbines and day lilies also.

5. Time to clean those terra cotta pots and store them inside (if left outdoors in the winter, they will surely crack). Do not panick if the inner needles on evergreens turn brown. It is normal for the older needles to do that before shedding. Also buy some candy at the grocery store, and hand it out to little superheros and princesses on Halloween!

Thank you Jessica Damiano for the original information. You can read more here.

What to do in September

Posted on September 10, 2014March 15, 2017

It’s September, school is starting back up again and fall weather is coming quickly. Here are some helpful tips to keep you on schedule for the month of September in your garden.

1. Now is the time to reseed and/or renovate the lawn. Also now is the time to celebrate Labor Day! Sow your lettuce, cabbage, arugula, collards, kale, radishes, spinach, kohlrabi, Asian greens, mustard greens, cauliflower, broccoli and Brussel sprouts for the fall harvest. You can also plant ferns in shady garden beds and borders.

2.Test your soil and add lime if needed to correct the pH, it will work on the soil all winter long. If your tomato plants are still producing blossoms, remove them. We want the plant to focus solely on ripening the existing fruit. Do not prune your spring-flowering shrubs now or they will not bloom next year.

3. Time to harvest grapes! You can also stop deadheading roses, so the hips will form. You can either make tea with them (only if they are chemical free) or leave them on as an accent to the plant. You can also plant witch hazel, red-twig dogwood, deciduous holly and beauty berry for winter interest. Bring in those tender pond plants and keep them moist by a sunny window.

4. It is the official beginning of fall! You can use last summers crops that are left to make soup (go crazy!) Pot up those rosemary, chive and parsley plants from the garden and bring ’em indoors near a sunny window.

5. Rake your soil well and get rid of fallen leaves and plant debris. We don’t want disease to overwinter in the soil, where it will attack again next year. Wait until your pumpkins are a rich orange color before harvesting. Leave several inches of stem attached to prevent premature rotting.

Thank you Jessica Damiano for the original information. You can read more here.

Helpful Hint:

Crickets coming into the house? Just vacuum them up and discard the bag.

What to do in August

Posted on August 10, 2014March 15, 2017

It’s August already! Almost time for kids to go back to school, have a last away summer vacation and enjoy the last bit of summer heat. Here are some helpful tips to keep you on your garden schedule for the month of August!

1. No matter how tempting it may be to let your zucchinis grow to a larger size, they are more tender and taste better if you pick them while they are small. It is officially safe to relocate evergreens now through October, just make sure you dig up as much of the roots as you can.

2. If your cabbage heads begin to split, bring them inside immediately or they will surely become inedible. You should also be monitoring the moisture levels of potted plants daily, because they lose moisture more quickly than garden plants. You should also clean up the fallen fruit around the bases of trees to prevent pest infestations.

3. When beets get 2 inches wide, it is time to harvest them. You can also saute and eat the leaves too (this is not true for all vegetables though; tomato foliage is toxic– stay away from those). You can also transplant spring-flowering bulbs that need to be relocated. It is now the time to take cuttings from inpatients, geraniums and wax begonias, and root them indoors for a new generation of free plants next year.

4. You can collect seeds from daylilies, Cleomes, rose campions and other plants that produce pods. Store in a paper envelope in the fridge, away from fruit until spring. You can also replace faded annuals with pansies. They’ll bloom through fall and again for next spring!

5. It is now the time to move your potted tropicals and houseplants into a shady spot for a couple of days before bringing them indoors until next spring. Dig up and divide daylilies as well after they have stopped blooming.

Thank you Jessica Damiano for the original information. You can read more here.

What to do in July

Posted on July 10, 2014March 15, 2017

Happy July! With an unpredictable month ahead of us, it is time to get down to buisness in the garden. Here are some helpful tips to help you stay on your garden schedule for the month of July!

1. To make sure your potato and tomato plants are protected against late blight, spray with a fungicide containing chlorothalonil (copper if you are growing organic) and reapply weekly. For top notch grass, set mower blades to 3 inches and keep them sharpened to lessen the chance of lawn disease. It is also time to celebrate the Fourth of July! Go America!

2. If you have a pond, add bunches of eelgrass per square foot of the surface water to keep algae under control. It is a good idea to set automatic sprinklers manually to make sure that your lawn gets 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week (adjusting for rainfall), Soak deeply in the early morning. When the skins of melons turn yellow, and stems loosen the hold onto the fruit–pick them!

3. Most vegetables planted in the garden need once inch of water per week, while their potted friends dry out much quicker (so check them daily). When the zucchini fruit reaches 5-6 inches long pick it, or the plant will stop producing. For a fall crop it is now the time to sow seeds of lettuce, radish, spinach cabbage, broccoli and cabbage directly into the garden.

4. Hooray! You can still plant shrubs and trees! Container grown are usually the best (although expensive). If you buy balled or burlapped make sure that the roots are fresh. To prevent powdery mildew , space plants to allow air circulation and avoid wetting leaves, water early in the day. Now is the time to also plant peas again for the fall harvest.

5. Make sure that your tress you newly planted get 1 1/2 inches of water per week, and also water established trees if two weeks have passed without rain. To lure slugs from your garden, place a wooden board inside the garden and overturn it in the morning scraping them off into a pail filled with soapy water.

Thank you Jessica Damiano for the original information. You can read more here.

Helpful Tips:

Cut flowers will stay fresher longer if you pick them in the morning, but if you’re going to dry them, pick them late in the day.
Living on Long Island it is good to know that if you’re near the beach, spray tree leaves with antidessicant to protect against salt and wind damage.
Smokers aware! Cigarettes can transmit tobacco mosaic virus to your plants. Don’t smoke in the garden, and wash hands after smoking before handling plants!

What to do in June

Posted on June 8, 2014March 15, 2017

It’s June, a month full of graduations, proms, the start of summer vacation, and father’s day. June is also a busy month for the garden. Here are some helpful tips, that you can follow for your garden!

1. In the first week, snake hoses through perennial and vegetable gardens to have a direct water source for the roots. You should also spray plants susceptible to mildew with one tablespoon of baking soda and ultrafine horticultural oil diluted in a gallon of water.

2. Time to remove wilted yellow leaves from bearded iris plants to help prevent iris borer infestations, and also stay on top of weeds. It is much easier to pull them after rainfall.

3. To increase tomato production, remove suckers, the small stems that grow in the crotch between the main branch and stems. Don’t forget to harvest lettuce before it bolts and turns bitter!

4. You should keep an eye out for Japanese beetles, pick them off in the morning or late evening when they are at their slowest. Drop them into soapy water. Also pinch back vining houseplants. Harvest your herbs in the morning, just after the dew has dried for the best flavor.

Helpful tip: Throughout the month you should keep an eye on mowing the lawn.

Thank you Jessica Damiano for the original information. You can read more here.

What to do in May

Posted on May 8, 2014March 15, 2017

May is here! Time for Memorial Day parties, the start of summer, Mother’s Day and more gardening! Here are some tips to help you keep on your garden schedule for the month.

1. Within the first week of May, apply mulch to your beds and borders. Also give cool-season vegetables like lettuce, spinach, and cabbage a helping of fertilizer and also mulch (if you haven’t already).

2. It’s the second week of May, time to sow the summer-blooming biennials and perennials into the garden. It is also time to plant sweet corn! You may also want to prune the gray tips from the branches of juniper.

3. In the third week of May, mound soil over the lowest leaves of your potato plants when they reach 8 inches tall (They will produce mire when their stems are buried). You also want to transplant your herb seedlings outside. However there is no need to fertilize.

4. The fourth week of May is upon us, time to fertilize those tulip bulbs, and remove the yellow foliage. Celebrate Memorial Day with your family and friends! Plant seedlings of cucumber and squash around a support, now you can also sow seeds directly into the ground!

5. In the last week of May, place peppers, melons, eggplant and tomatoes into prepared beds. Add compost to planting holes, then mulch. You can also prune spring-flowering shrubs immediately after they have finished blooming.

For an easier way to pull your weeds, wait until after it rains or saturate the area first– the weeds will come right out of a wet ground.

Thank you Jessica Damiano for the original information. You can read more here.

What to do in April

Posted on April 4, 2014March 15, 2017

It’s officially Spring! Its April– warm weather, gardening, and happy days are upon us. It’s been a while since last spring but here are a few tips that will get you back into the ‘Spring Grind’.

1. In the first week, pinch off the tips of leggy seedlings that are growing inside to make them grow stockier.

2. The second week of April means you can finally plant blackberries, strawberries and raspberries! You can also plant your potato and sweet potatoes.

3. Deadhead rhododendrons immediately after flowering, and prune azaleas after they bloom. Unfortunately it is also tax day on the 15th, but it is also the last day for frost! Rejoice!

4. If you haven’t already, pull out those weeds before they overtake your garden! Celebrate Earth Day! Scratch one half cup of Epsom salt into the soil around the roses to boost flower production, and fullness.

5. Resist the temptation to remove foliage from spring bulb plants before it turns brown. The bulbs are busy storing food that will be needed to bloom next year. And finally start mowing the lawn when the grass is 3 inches tall, but don’t fertilize until Memorial Day!

Thank you Jessica Damiano for the information. You can read more here.

What to do in March

Posted on March 4, 2014February 23, 2017

It’s March already, and many things are upon us. Daylight Savings, St. Patrick’s Day, and yes–more gardening chores. Here are some helpful hints of what should be done in your garden.

1. Time to start cutting back on the ornamental grasses and remnant’s of last year’s perennials. Houseplants should also being replanted into pots that are 1 to 2 inches larger, you can even give them a little bit of organic fertilizer like seaweed!

2. By the second week of the month, it is necessary to start the seeds of annuals indoors. You can also plant cool-season crops like lettuce and spinach outdoors.

3. It’s the third week of March, Happy St. Patrick’s Day! To celebrate you can buy a potted Oxalis regnellii Shamrock Plant. Or you can sow broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower indoors. In the vegetable garden, if the soil isn’t too moist you can incorporate lime and compost into the soil, then cover with plastic mulch to warm the soil.

4. Now is the time to remove broken stems from lilacs and rhododendrons, but DO NOT prune intact ones with buds on them. You can also start the seeds of peppers, tomatoes and eggplants indoors.

5. In the last few days of March, you should rake your beds and clear out any debris. No matter how well you did this in autumn, there is likely more to do now.

Keep in mind, that Daylight Saving’s begins March 8th, and it is illegal in Suffolk and Nassau County to fertilize your lawn before April 1st. Also, Spring officially begins at 6:45 PM on March 20th, rejoice for the warm weather!

What to do in February

Posted on February 4, 2014February 23, 2017

February has rolled around again, time for Groundhog Day, Valentine’s Day, and President’s Day. But also an important time to perform certain task’s in your garden. Here is a list of helpful tips to follow.

1. In the first week of the month, you should check on stored tubers and bulbs, mist those that re drying out and get rid of the rotten ones. Lavender should also be started along with thyme indoors on a sunny windowsill. It may not seem like it but the compost pile should be turned, it is still cooking out there!

2. In the second week you should prune summer blooming trees and shrubs to tame size and shape. Also remove dead branches and those that crisscross. Orchids should be replanted that are outgrowing their pots.

3. It’s the third week, if you haven’t properly cleaned seed-starting supplies yet, wash the one part bleach to 10 parts water and rinse well. Bring an early spring indoors by force-blooming flowering shrubs like crab-apple, forsythia and quince. Cut branches and place into vases of water indoors.

4. The last week of February is just as important as the beginning of the month. Start pruning deciduous trees (those that lose leaves in the fall) except “bleeders” like maple, beech, dogwood, elm, and sycamore. Wait until those leaf out. When house plants begin to show signs of active growth, give them a boost with a shot of water-soluble fertilizer. Finally, you should start celery, leeks, onions, beets, broccoli, Brussel sprouts, cabbage and cauliflower indoors; it is way too early for anything else.

Just a helpful hint about roses. If you are planning on buying them for Valentine’s Day, remember the colors! Red signifies romance, Pink means affection, Yellow is for friendship, and White is for purity.

What to do in January

Posted on January 4, 2014February 23, 2017

With January, comes the new year, new weather and new things to do in your garden.

1. In the first week of January, wrap recently planted evergreens with burlap to avoid wind and snow damage. Also, don’t forget to rotate houseplants and keep away from heat sources!

2. Once you take down your Christmas tree, don’t throw it all away! Trim branches and use as mulch over your precious garden beds! But don’t forget, avoid walking on frozen turf outside or you will shatter grass blades causing noticeable damage in the spring.

3. Once the temperature is above 40 degrees, spray your broad leaf evergreens with an anti-desiccant to protect from the harsh winter damage.

4. By the fourth week of January you should start parsley, onions, and leeks indoors in a dark location. Once they begin to sprout, move them into a bright spot! Also begin to prune dormant fruit trees but make sure to complete the task before the end of March.

5. In the last week of January, there is a bit of maintenance that should be done. Firstly, you should cut branches of forsythia, dogwood, honeysuckle, lilac, quince, and redbud, and place them in vases to force early blooming indoors. Secondly, you should begin the slow grow of annuals like ageratum, nicotiana, snapdragons, and verbena indoors. Thirdly, African violets and other flowering houseplants should be deadheaded. And last but not least, hold a steaming pot of water over frozen ponds to melt an opening in the surface that will release trapped gases that can poison fish (also those fish need to get some air too!)

Just a tip, avoid using salt to melt snow, its toxic to most plants. Instead you should try using sawdust, sand, cat litter, or even good old fashioned elbow grease!